Review and How to: Came-Mini 2, Came-7800, Came-7500, and Came-7000
Updated: July 1st, 2015 (EST)
A new tool-less Came-Mini 2 is out! It’s versatile and we are loving it, check out the review here!
A new updated version of the Came-7800 is now available, it is almost tool-less balance! See pictures below. Check out more below.
Like this page? Please consider liking my current project: click here!
You can order it with them directly Came-Mini 2, Came-7000 or the Came-7500 or the Came-8000 click here (comes with the 32bit controller board)
Hello everyone, I’ve decided to arrange the page a bit again and concentrate more on the latest release of the Alexmos Controller Board and make this page easier to read.
This is a page about the Came-TV‘s Came-7000, Came-7500, Came-7800 and the new Updated Came-7800 and maybe the Came-8000 (or any 3-Axis Brushless Gimbal of the similar build) with the Alexmos 32bit controller board (for 8bit controller board, please click here), I will try my best to put all the information on one page and will be updating this page constantly so this would be a great place to start with your journey into these gimbals. If you are still using the 8bit controller board, it’s time to move to the 32bit bit. (For information on the 8bit controller board, please click here)
I’ve now changed my Came-7000’s 8bit controller into the 32bit version, I’ve also recorded myself of my process, see video how I did it (unedited)
My current setup to be used is the Came-7800 using the GH4 + 12-35mm F2.8 lens + cheap quick release plate (not recommended after a few trial runs) to total the weight to be around 2.6lbs. The Gimbal process is 3 parts:
- Build the gimbal or assemble it all together
- Balance the camera+lens+sdcard (without the lens cap)
- Tune the software to make it 100% or close to it. (May no need to do this with the Came-7800 as it came pre-tuned for various cameras).
PLEASE READ IT A FEW TIMES THE WHOLE THING BEFORE STARTING, ALL YOUR QUESTIONS ARE ANSWERED HERE.
My Videos:
First thing first: My Review on the Came-7000 which is look the same as the Came-7500 and similar to the Came-7800 except that all the wires are already pre-assebled by Came-TV, you still need to tightens the screws using a tool kit set which I have listed at bottom of this page.
For my test running with the Came-7000 8bit gimbal, see here:
For my test running with the Came-7500 32bit gimbal using the GH4 and 12-35mm F.28 lens:
For our fun video about The Evolution of Stabilizers:
For our current project: A Fan Film Teaser that included the usage of a gimbal, to watch the finished Episode 1, click here.
We recently was hired to do a series of videos for Confucius Institute of Cleveland State University, here’s one shot done using the 8bit gimbal and the Atlas Camera Support System.
9-20-2014, took our Came-7500 for a test run at the Cleveland Dragon Boat Festival:
How quickly is to change lenses with the Came-7800:
A video review of Atlas Camera Support System‘s latest product the 2-Rod Support System with the Came-7800:
A quick video review of the Atlas Camera Support System‘s 1-Rod Support System with the Came-7800:
For more information about the Came-7800, click here.
Background: Why I started to learn about 3-Axis Brushless Gimbal and how to build your own Came-7000. Please click here.
PROCESS: Here’s a quick glance on how to get it going:
- Get a tool kit set instead using the L shaped key
- Charge the battery
- Get a Gimbal Stand or two light stand or build your own
- Assemble your Came-7000 or other similar typed gimbals. (click here for more info)
- Balance your camera (Camera, Lens, and everything that needs to be on the camera for the shoot, except lens cap or microphone)
- Use a quick release plate if need to (for Came-7000 or Came-7500, it would be harder to balance though and you may need to take out the top horizontal bar above the camera)
- Adjust each axis to balance the camera+lens (so it can stay on whatever direction you have it place).
- Relax
- Install the driver to your mac or pic (you can find it here)
- Download and install the GUI software (to tune the gimbal – 32bit controller), click here for the info.
- Read the GUI manual (if you are confused don’t worry)
- Plug the gimbal to the computer vis USB to MicroUSB cable
- Tune the gimbal to your most satisfactory (this is the hardest part)
- Re-read the GUI manual (now you should understand it a bit more)
- Retune if need to
- Go do some running and testing
- DONE
Accessories I would recommend:
- Don’t throw away the box that came with your gimbal, it can be useful, as the foam can be used to build your own box that so you can carry the complete set. I used to use a Pelican Cube but now I switched it to this: A Pelican 1600 case with the original packaging foam. I do have to take one of the horizontal handle bar off and the top part of it, but with the tool kit, it was a breeze. (about 5-10 mins setup time on location) This case can also be used with the Came-7800, you just have to loosen up one of the handles and the top handle too. (Came-7800 users can also consider the Pelican 1640)
Using the original foam I can now have the completely balanced Came-7500 gimbal ready for traveling.
after laying down the top foam, now I can include the stand, the 5″ monitor, and other items
Here’s a Pelican 1600 used by Barry Murphy for his Came-7800
- Came-TV now also sales a hard case and stand for the Came-7500/Came-7800, the hard case is limited to space wise for other items but it seems nice.
NOTE: The Stand isn’t bad, smaller than the $150 heavy duty one I got. It can be taken apart or put together within 5 mins (takes time if you are first timer). The Soft-case (not hard case as Came-TV claim) is very counter productive. If you have already balanced the gimbal and try to put it in, it will NOT 100% if you are using a gh4 or something that is smaller and requires some ‘adjusting to do’. For me, I have to loosen up the screws to the YAW so I can fit it in. overall it is a very poorly designed case. And it is not airport safe, you should consider another hard case to put it outside of this when transporting.
- Get a Tool Kit set like this: 45 in 1 Precision Screwdriver Tools set makes working with the gimbal really easy. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A740VQM/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- If the Gimbal gets heavy and you need something to support it (like a Stabilizer vest), you can either spend for about $2k for an EasyRig or a ReadyRic, or you can consider this: The Atlas Camera Support System. For Gimbal users, consider the 2-Rod System, it is really versatile and useful, check out the video above.
Came-7800 with the Atlas Camera Support System’s 2-Rod System – Great for gimbals
Atlas Camera Support System 1-rod system that also works with gimbals.
Came-7000 with the Atlas Camera Support System
- Consider to get this 5″ framing used monitor (since it is the cheapest at $127), I’ve used MushHD and the SmallHD DP4 and there isn’t much of a difference. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJK57V2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you prefer a 5″ monitor with HDMI OUT, then a MustHD 5″ ($240) or the SmallHD DP4 is to consider instead of this.
- And a monitor mount bracket: CARBON FIBER MONITOR FIXING BRACKET
- Now you need a really thin cable… I am using this two types: one is a right angled 5ft micro-HDMI to HDMI or this one: Click here to find out more (this is Micro-HDMI to HDMI), if you need Mini-HDMI to HDMI – like Canon or other DSLRs, it’s a bit short but works, click here. (NOTE: get the 5ft one, the other one breaks easily)
Need another 3s 11v battery? Consider this: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMYY2OE/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 
The Came-7800 came and it seems the cage for the camera is slightly bigger than the Came-7500, as it needed a quick release plate. the rest looks the same, when you first open the box, there are few areas that you will need to tightens once it is balanced, so take your time. Below after the pictures, you will find all the videos how to balance the Came-7800. (The Came-7800 has the same motors as the Came-7500)
all assembled together (except you just need to balance and tightens the screws)
it also come with a warning sticker… so you shouldn’t change the profile or update the firmware… unless you know what you are doing.
Battery seems to look different but with a bit more information written on the label
Came-7800 comes with a monitor mount. I like the one I ordered (listed above) as it uses less space
This is how it looked like when placed on stand (stand not included) Notice the part holding the horizontal bar? that has to be balanced as well.
Came-7800 has the power plug attached into the plate, making it easy to plug/unplug. Sorry for the blurry pic.
Came-7800 (left) meet Came-7500
Below is the video of the Came-7800 after balanced by a member of our team that has NO prior experience with gimbals. Out of the box without tuning, and this is the result.
And here is the part 1 of how to balance your Came-7800, this is the introduction and differences between the Came-7500 and the Came-7800.
Here how to balance the Came-7800 with a DSLR. This is the important, unlike many other videos that failed to explain, you must balance the horizontal bar (right behind the DSLR placement) before you use the quick release plate to micro-balance. If the horizontal bar is not balanced correctly (normally to keep it about 90 degrees with the back vertical bar), then it is not balanced. NOTE: Some users has gotten their gimbal with the horizontal bar (the one holding the roll motor right behind the camera plate) is now tightens, so the part of my video where we have to adjust our is no longer necessary. We had to adjust ours as it came lose and it was required.
the back vertical bar should be at 90 degrees with the horizontal bar to be able to balance quickly.
And finally, here’s how to attach the other items like the Battery and the Monitor:
As you can see, out of the box, it worked. and here’s the actual profiles from the Came-7800 that we used and tested with 3 cameras/lenses settings: Gh4+12-35mm, Gh4+14-140mm, and Gh4+Rokinon 14mm+speedbooster. On All these, the Came-7800 handled it without software tuning. We also tried the Came-7800 profiles on our Came-7500 and it worked as well (not as much as it should be compared to the Came-7800 but it surely can be the start – software tuning will most likely be needed). You can try out the Came-7800 profiles by clicking here.
At the Facebook’s Brushless Gimbals group, user Jefta Varwijk has kindly offered his profiles for anyone interested, this is for his 3_DYS_Eagle Eye Gimbal and it should also work as it’s the same build. See below below:
profile1: fast follow pitch/yaw
profile2: slow follow pitch/yaw
profile3: follow pitch
Download it now by clicking here.
Changing Lenses?
So, a few users on forums been asking me, how easy to change lenses with the Came-7800? EASY: It can take less than 1 minute.
Here’s Tony Vo’s unboxing video, he is the master of gimbals.
Conclusion:
So, we have been asked if it’s worth the money to upgrade? Yes if you have the Came-7000 and would like to get the next best lowed price gimbal, the Came-7800 would be a good choice. If you have the Came-7500, you wouldn’t see much of a benefit to upgrade to the Came-7800 if you already gotten the Came-7500 tuned (unless you need a bigger camera holder-cage and the quick release plate. If you just venturing into 3-Axis Brushless Gimbal, then the Came-7800 should be considered.
Yes, it is not the Movi, nor a Ronin or BeSteady,etc. but at the end of the day, it is a working gimbal that can do the job and do it as well as those mentioned before at the at an affordable cost (on sale now).
Can you Add a Bluetooth board to it so you can connect via table to tune the software? YES. the controller board on the Came’s gimbals are the authorized Alexmos controllers and you can open it and add bluetooth if you plan to access the GUI via bluetooth.
OR
You can get one of those cheap Windows 8.1 tablet, like the Microcenter’s Winbook 10.1″ 32bit tablet and can install the programs and use that to tune via usb port. The tablet is $199 currently or sometimes you can get open box version at $159.
What can you do with the Came-7500 or the Came-7800, a lot of different modes, yes, you can get it inverted (if you tune it right) or you can do briefcase mode, as I’ve done below (both using the Came-7800 profiles I have available above)
Here you see the Came-7500 and Came-7800 in briefcase mode (without software tuning), this is just balanced and run.
ALSO: Just discovered that the screw to attach the camera to the release plate can get lost easily so if that happens, you can take the one on the bottom of the plate (replace with something else) and use those, they are the same. or find extremely low profile ones.
A few users has been experiencing problem with the gimbal where when balanced completely and turns it on, the roll slowly drifts a bit and so it gives a slight tilt. You can check on the back horizontal bar (the one connected to the Roll Motor or the one behind the camera cage) and readjust that bar, or you can go into the GUI and either do an auto-tune of just the ROLL.
The other cheat way to adjust that is to change the control of the joystick, instead of allowing the joystick to control the YAW (which is kinda useless), set it up to adjust the ROLL instead, this can be done under the RC Tab.
Jan 13, 2015 – Today, I’ve rebalanced my gimbal as it was slowly drifting upward, so, I decided to also updated the firmware to the latest (2.43b9), and using the same profiles that came with my Came-7800. I updated the Came-7500 and the Came-7800, loaded the profiles and done! Still working!
Updated Came-7800
We received a new updated version of the Came-7800. It has knobs.
The new version has better handles, and the tool less knob adjustment DOES help with the balancing but it is not enough, my gimbal’s back vertical bar came crooked, so I have to align it and that really threw off the GUI. lol Since I have already the previous 7800, I can just adjust the cage size to be the same, and within 10 mins, I had it balanced with the knobs. when I turned it on, it works, but the tilted due to the bad packaging/lock down when they shipped. The stand is ‘short’ on the length so you have to ‘push the vertical bars closer to be able to put the handles in. other than that, nothing new. New stand took more time to put it together, I don’t like it. lol New case is a bit better in form factor wise, so the gimbal fits at ease. If you do have to get the gimbal, get the updated 7800 instead. if you don’t adjust the bars like I do, then you actually have it right out of box working, but if you are anal as I am, you will at least need to go into the GUI to acc and imu calibrate.
Check out the pictures and videos below.
Before we start with the review and such, did you know you can quickly calibrate your gimbal right after on location setup? Here’s how:
Oh, one more thing, can you tell which video footage is from the Came-7800 and which is from the Moza Gimbal?
And here’s our review:
With the tool-less balancing design, now one can easily change cameras without taking a long time, here we are showing you how you can change from a GH4 setting to a A7s. We didn’t do a YAW balance is due to the sizes of the cameras were similar, so there weren’t much of a PITCH adjustment, in other times, when the sizes of the cameras differs a lot (like going from a GH4 to a Canon 70D), then you should readjust the YAW knob.
DID YOU KNOW?
The New Updated Came-7800 Stand can also be considered as part of a car mount once you get 4 sets of suction cups for the legs? See, now you get to put the gimbal on the stand and on your car’s hood 🙂
So you will need 4 sets of these: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0023ZK2TY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And here’s the video:
Although it is not perfect, but it can be used, on a very flat, no pot holes road, check out this video:
Please have a lot of patient, it takes a bit of a time to balance it right, once you have the camera+lens balanced, you should be able to swing on any angle with the camera and it would stay there.
Many people keep asking what sort of lens you need, the answer is SIMPLE: use a lens that provide you a wide angle (a prime or a wide angled lens – several suggested something from 11mm to 35mm) simple because you are using a stabilizing system and would need to be ‘close to the subject’, while using zoom lens are not suggested, you can, just may have problem maneuver it.
Also, before buying a gimbal, find out what camera and lens you plan to use it with and stick with it, otherwise you will have to deal with balancing it every time and it can take a LONG time.
Find out the TOTAL weight you plan to have on the gimbal, the Came-7000/Came-7500/Came-7800 can hold up to 6.6lbs (about 3kg), that means, for example: My Canon 70D with battery is 1.7lbs + my Rokinon 14mm is 1.2lbs, my total would be 2.9lbs, or the Panasonic GH4 + 12-35mm lens for a total about 2.6lbs.
Now, mount the camera/lens to your gimbal, make sure anything else you want on the camera is there and anything else should set the lens to IS ON if it has one. Take out the lens covers, since you need to balance the camera on the gimbal system, anything extra will throw it off. I used these videos from Youtube user TonyTypes.
They are really good to understand how to balance a Gimbal. it’s in three parts, see below
You basically need to adjust the camera bracket (top and bottom part) and then the horizontal bar behind the camera (where ROLL is attached to), be VERY careful because you have the camera mounted, it can ‘slide’ and throw you off balance. Here’s a video how the camera should stay when it is balanced:
It took me about 45 minutes to get it balanced. When you got it all balanced out, tightens the screws! I kept forgetting to do so and every time I store it away on a Pelican 0340 cube case (btw, fits 100% snugged but since then I’ve moved to a Pelican 1600 with the original packing foam that came with my gimbal), it gets unbalanced and I have to ‘turn the screws again’… Learned! The 32bit version of Came-7000 comes with a joystick and the you MUST install the joystick with the controller.
Here’s the other side of the wires for the joystick and where it goes. Came-TV’s video is spot on, and this picture would help as well, click on the picture to see larger version.
For the 32bit Alexmos Controller, it comes with 2 IMU sensors, Came-TV has offered these pictures where they should be placed, click on the pictures to enlarge them:
This is how Came-TV has their IMU Frame set.
This is how Came-TV has their IMU Sensor set. I have it the same way as well.
For 32bit Came-7000 gimbal build and setup:
CheesyCam’s Emm just released this good tip video for those who has a Came-7000/Came-7500 (8bit or 32bit) that make it much more stable. Also, he has a PID Profile settings available for anyone with the 32bit version), Click here to download CheesyCam’s 32bit Came-7000 PID Profile Settings. He also created an entire page with several how-to videos, click here for more.
OK! You are ½ way there! The next step is software tuning. Before you do that, you need to make sure your computer (PC preferred but the new 32bit version can also work on Mac system.) can communicate with the Alexmos controller board, so you first need to download the driver for your computer, then the Alexmos controller board’s firmware and the GUI software to run it. (Make sure to turn the power on as well on the gimbal when doing tuning)
NOTE: MicroCenter.com sells a Winbook TW100 10.1″ Windows 8.1 tablet (full 32bit version of the OS) for $199, and it comes with a USB3 port, I’ve tested with my gimbal (after installing the driver and the GUI software for tuning), it works!
You can find all the download at Alexmos website or the quick glace part of this page. I am using GUI and firmware version 2.42b6. If you hear a high pitch sound when first plug in the battery to the gimbal, that’s normal, you just have to go to the advance tab and under PWM frequency changed it to (HIGH (silent)). If you plug the battery to the gimbal and it shakes uncontrollable, do not panic, that is normal, it is because the controller board on the gimbal do not know what to do yet, so you need to follow the tuning instruction below.
ALSO, please KEEP the camera without the lens cap on the gimbal while doing software tuning, without the camera it will move/jerk like crazy. A few users had expressed problem installing the driver and such, here’s a good video that would help:
You will also need the Java run time installed, as the SimpleBGC GUI is Java application. It can be downloaded here here’s a video about GUI and a quick tuning explained (this is old but good reference point):
Here’s a good PID explanation to get you started, thank Timo:
I watched this video to give myself an idea:
Once connected, first thing I did was to update the firmware, the new GUI has an option to upgrade the firmware, and if it doesn’t work at your satisfactory, you can always use it to downgrade.
Remember to make sure to use the latest GUI software so you can upgrade or downgrade firmware.
Your next step is to do a detailed IMU Calibration (ACC Calibration), which is called a six-point calibration (you do NOT have to do this now, as I didn’t with the Came-7500 and the current GUI is very intuitive to make sure it works well).
WHEN YOU HAVE THE GIMBAL PLUGGED TO THE COMPUTER and after ACC Calibration, your gimbal/motors will start vibrating or moving all other the places, DO NOT PANIC, this is because the gimbal is yet to be tuned and so the motors do not know what to do, you can do this: use my profiles (and other users’ profiles available for download below) load the profile and then WRITE. that will help ‘stop’ the vibrations or erradict behavior a bit. AND you can start FINE TUNE IT since the weight may not be the same for your camera than theirs or you can do AUTO-TUNE option (a cool feature now included on the 2.42 GUI) Here’s another good tuning tutorial
Tony Vo, a talented gimbal builder has graciously offered his PID settings below, he is using a 32bit controller card. Here’s what he has to say: PID settings for the Came-7000 gimbal sing a 3s lipo battery. This setting is for a 5Dmk3 16-35mm lens and will also work with lighter cams like a Canon T3i. This is my sweet spot and you guys may need to slightly change the values as not all gimbals are the same. Please click on each image to view larger size.
Second sensor is mounted below the yaw motor just like how Came has it mounted. (See pictures above) Tip: Make sure you properly set your sensor orientation or his settings will not work for you. Here are some pictures (you can click each picture to enlarge it)
Here you can see how my IMU Fame is placed, Came-TV has it the opposite way, either way is fine as long as when you head into the GUI software and acc calibrate it.
A closeup look of the IMU Frame sensor, notice there is a black electric tape that I have between the frame and the sensor, due to the fact I discovered that the Carbon Fiber frame conduce electricity, and this would be a quick way to solve that issue of shorting out the IMU.
This is how my Gh4+12-35mm lens sits on the Came-7000 with 32bit controller, the top frame bar is not close to the camera, so I can easily take the camera out.
Here’s a short video of me changing the controller board from 8bit to 32bit. Use this a reference, I may have to adjust a few things later:
And here’s how I balanced the Gh4 with 12-35mm lens on the gimbal:
And finally, you need to balance the YAW which I didn’t realized until just now. lol So, check out this video by Tony Vo!
I still need to adjust my settings but after adjusting the YAW, I can now almost go extreme with mine. (my final profiles for Came-7000 and Came-7500 is available below)
Some of my observations when changing the 8bit controller to the 32bit:
- Carbon fiber conduce electricity so put an electric black tape between with the imu sensors
- If you base your setup with came-tv videos, make sure you re-adjust the joystick, have the connectors to the joystick points upward or you will have to reconfigure the settings in GUI under RC.
- Emm’s profile works the best compared to what Came-TV provided, I’ve modified it to make it works better with the Gh4. (coming soon)
- before starting, only plug the usb to gimbal first then to PC (doesn’t work well with mac) and then turn the gimbal on.
- run the program and do an erase eprom to have a clean start
- go to upgrade tab and upgrade to the latest firmware
- Do the calibration:
- keep the gimbal on the perfect position you want first
- once it is steady and the way you want it
- select camera imu and click CALIB Acc (you do not need to do the 6-point IMU ACC Calibration)
- then select Frame IMU then click calib acc
- now WRITE
- make sure camera is positioned the way you wanted it then press Calib Gyro
- load a profile (use Emm’s for example) and then write to gimbal
- if you plan to use multiple profiles, you can have different cameras set for each profiles and so you will have to do calibration per profile.
- Gyro calibration helps stabilize the gimbal 🙂
AUTO-TUNING: Here’s a good starting video about auto tuning:
Here’s Emm from CheesyCam made this video that would explain how to do it:
PROFILES:
Cinematographer Tom Antos uses a 7D with 24mm lens that is about 3.233lbs or 1466.46g (Click here for direct download link)
Came-TV also provided me a rar file with 3 PID profiles for the 32bit controller board, once the joystick is installed, you just need to load these profiles and you should be able to easily run with any cameras (according to them from GH2, GH3, Gh4, 5D2 or 5D3) 500g – 2000g , click here for the rar file.Update: July 1, 2014: Came-TV just sent me another set of profiles in English, Came-7000 and Came-7500 profiles English.
My observations and my GH4 profiles (9/14/2014):
I’ve learned a bit more recently, thanks to Tony Vo’s suggestions via chat, this is what I learned:
– make sure you have full power on the battery
– turn the gimbal on and then plug it to GUI
– use the latest version of software and firmware if you can
– go to Service tab and on Calibrate for voltage, put in the right info, for 3s 11.1v use 12.6 (make sure the battery is fully charge) so it can provide accurate battery info
– breath
– Double check your motors power and poles info, you can do auto, but most of time use what is already there. For Came-7000 the poles are 22, 22, 14, for came-7500 I have 22, 22, 22.
– breath
– uncheck gyro calibration on startup, this would help stabilize the gimbal when you turn it on.
– You do not need to do 6point calibration if your IMU is already enclosed and boxed up, all you do is make sure it is level/balanced and acc calibrate both the Sensor IMU and Fame IMU.
– Autotune works if you have patient and let it does the job, ONE by ONE, and when that is done, you may see something that said “motor is missing steps” don’t panic.
– Once it is tuned, unplug and test it around, if you hear motor making noises, find out which axis and lower the pid info.
– make sure the joystick work, you may need to play with it a bit, for came-7000 and came-7500, it is an analog joystick.
– if one axis is drifting slightly, check under RC tab, scroll all the way to the bottom and do an AUTO (this was something I didn’t realize it exist until today)
– once the first profile is done without follow mode, then create one with it. Here are two of my profiles I’m using now, pending testing
– but if you are interested: Click here for Profiles for Came-7000 with 32bit controller with Gh4, and Click here for Profiles for Came-7500 with 32bit controller with Gh4 and a quick release.
A little break: Came-TV will be releasing the Came-8000 shortly. The Came-8000 is made for BMCC or the RED Epic, here’s a video demonstration:
That’s it! I hope these are helpful, and if you need other supports, here are some recommended links:
For anyone need help, check out this great Facebook Group.
http://www.multikopter.co.uk/forum/forum/86-3-axis-gimbal/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/TBCGG/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/162469577283791/ http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2035107&page=2
http://www.unmannedtech.co.uk/3/post/2013/12/balancing-your-brushless-gimbal.html
http://www.foxtechfpv.com/product/falcongimbal/FOXTECH%20FALCON%20BRUSHLESS%20GIMBAL%20OPERATION%20MANUAL.pdf http://jodagimbal.com/?paged=3 http://www.dronetrest.com/t/balancing-your-brushless-gimbal/55/2
ADD additional accessories for your gimbal, here are a few links where I buy stuff at 🙂 If you live in the USA, you can buy parts for your gimbal here (I got a stand with them, a joystick with button to control profiles, a monitor tray): http://www.aerialpixels.com
NOTE: Came-TV.com also now have Gimbal stand available for sale, you can probably find cheaper ones via aliexpress.com as well (many RC hobbyist buys from this site from all the forums I’ve read)
For other accessories, I shop via Amazon (as I have Prime) 🙂 – I use http://smile.amazon.com as it will allow you to give some $ back to charity of your choice.
For a basic controller enclosure, I’ve gotten this (if you use the basic shipping it will get to you in 20 days or so, also I didn’t use the swith, I was lazy): http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6031343305.html to avoid shorting out the controller board with the box (it seems to pass through electricities), I used a 3M double sided tape. I’ve seen pictures of people using plastic screws
click below picture to enlarge to see those plastic screws. Just found them on ebay, they are plastic m2.5x8mm screws (or you can use m2.5x10mm) and the plastic m2.5 nuts.
Emm of Cheesycam.com also did a video on using a project box to cover up the controller, check it out!
You may add this to the support system so you can easily attach/detaache from the gimbal. A cube Pelican 0340 or 0350 (2″ wider all around) case that can fit the gimbal straight down: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AICE5C/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Note: I’ve now using the Pelican 1600 with original packing foam – see at top)
Want to do wireless hdmi out monitoring? Try this: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009E6R89C/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and you will need a battery backpack for the wireless transmitter: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009USAJCC/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
NOTE: with the Panasonic GH4, you just need a quad core android tablet or an Ipad Air and you are set to go, since the camera can connect via wifi and with the Panasonic Image App, you can actually control everything via the tablet. Great and easy way to do remote control 🙂
Need a 5” monitor with video out loop? Either SmallHD DP4 (about $500), or MustHD (about $205) http://www.musthd.com/products/5-inch-musthd-lcd-hdmi-field-monitor-with-focus-assist-marker-false-color-41.html
To connect the monitor to the DSLR, you may need a cable that is about 3ft long, after a while of searching, I finally found one that has the 90degrees angle turn the right way (upside for Canon DSLRs at least), http://www.ebay.com/itm/260984380154?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 or you can use the ribbon one I have posted above for the Gh4 to the Monitor. I didn’t go with curly cables because they usually may restrict the gimbal to move. Wanna have wireless control to an Android phone or tablet? http://www.dslrfilmnoob.com/2013/12/11/tp-link-tl-mr3040-wireless-field-monitor-dslr-controller/ Another monitor or mic holder: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00585CLVS/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (this is what I am using right now, it’s ok, I am looking for something that I can move around a bit more to adjust monitor view.
You may need a few velcro straps to attach the battery to the gimbal, either this one or this one will work. 
NEED MORE HELP OR RESOURCES? USE GOOGLE SEARCH or FEEL FREE TO CONTACT ME via EMAIL (It’s much easier) Also, some issues may need you to videotape the problem so it can be easier to explain.
Here are some pictures of my Came-7000 3-Axis Brushless Gimbal Stabilizer System for DSLR (up to 6.6lbs) 
For more pictures of my Came-7000, click here. I wanted to give a shout out thanks to the following: Frank from Came-TV, Emm from Cheesycam.com, Tom Antos from TOmAntosFilms.com, Deejay from DSLRFilmnoob.com, Caleb from DSLRvideoshooter.com, Mike Bacanu, Jason Wang, Joe Insana, Michael from Atlas Camera Support System, and the Dragon Dance costume.
Hi.. i have a pressing issue with mine..was working ok.. but now it seems when i connect the battery (even after setting back to default) it now violently shakes and seems like its loking around the room!
see this https://www.dropbox.com/s/cwjgr5814pyp1z7/Video%2015-05-2014%208%2051%2013%20am.mov
anythoughts as it doing my head in.. all the wires are on correct from what i can tell..
cheers
scott
I’m having the same problem!!!
I was on a shoot (only had the thing for a week), everything was working great.
All of the sudden, the top motor won’t stop freaking out. It keeps acting like it can’t find balance… which is weird because I didn’t re-calibrate (to my knowledge) anything.
Please help!
try setting it leveled, connect to the laptop, do a acc calibration and see, it may help, I just ran into that issue and had to recalibrate…
to follow up https://vimeo.com/95476275
Scott, so you did acc calibrate and then you tuned the gimbal and save the information to the controller board right?
Hello Johnny,
This post was very helpful. My CAME-7000 Gimbal came with a joystick panel and wires. Do you know where this plugs in to the board? In your pictures, I didn’t see a joystick so you might not have received it with your purchase.
Any information would be helpful, thank you.
Hi Sherwin, can you take a picture of the joystick and send it to me via contact? I would like to see. where did you get your came-7000?
Hi
Having a problem connecting when the battery is attached.
I have tried using 2.40b7 and 2.3.
It connects fine without the battery but when attached it stalls at “connecting to COM3”.
Hi,
Im having problems with software, and my board is giving me wierd noice (beep all time) and i have flashing light if green,
So what im doing wrong, i conected instaled as in videos,
I have gimbal came-7000
Regards Genc
Would you mind get me a video and post it on YouTube and email me the link? Thanks
here is the link, and does it have any reset button
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Q2zkLFV1Tc
hope sensor works fine just some software bug, i just bought it
It may be possible you have the sensor wire reversed. Unplug it on the controller area and reserve there and try that.
will that burn something?? and thnx for the fast reply
It won’t. Came-TV video had a mistake which is why I wrote about it on my page.
now its ok, thnx yet cant start it? it gives me buzz noise, what is the next step?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFQxdImrhvY
hope this will help to every gimbal new users
Please read my blog carefully I did talk about the buzz noise etc.
Hi MDIFILM,
I Just assembled my came 7000 Gimble
I really appreciate your helps, because i have the same prob with me sensor wire. But buzz noise is coming continuously. please help me with that, and how to find the correct software version for calibrate.
Please read the page carefully. I did mention on the buzz noise
my two cents to the community
a cheap stand
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6103366939.html
Hey MDIFILM.
Great blog, I just got my came 7000 2 days ago, certain things in your videos resemble what, but some are missing, or just redeisgned. It looks like they took alot of the hard work out of this. Chips for example are already connected to the various chips.
Was wondering if I could send you VIDEO.
Thanks
Will
Sure. I know it comes with the 32-bit version now 🙂
Hi, MDIFILM,
i setup my Gimble with help your web site and working fine,. But now have one problem, when i connect the usb (usb 3) its not detecting by computer, but when contact battery its connect and work fine, but earlier it is connect only with (usb 3) without battery, is it normal??
have you tried changing the wire? or tried it on a usb2 port?
HI Mdifilm, Thanks For you reply, i tried it on usb 2 also didn’t wrk. then tried with a new USB cable, then its fine, Something Wrong with USB cable.
Thanks a lot and appreciate your support. 😀
I just want to say thank you for gathering all resources into one place. I am new to gimbals. I read your blog line by line, again and again.. and finally got mine to work. Well it’s not tuned yet, but at least it does not dance on me now. I am going to read line by line, over and over again to get it right!
Thanks MDI!
Congratulations on a great site!
Just got my Came 7000 32bit.
After finishing the initial build I decided to run the cables through the frame, to do this I unplugged the cables from their plastic ends. NOW I’m paranoid which way the cables should go into the motors and board! Basically I would like to know which side does the white cable go (I’m guessing the middle cable stays in the middle?) I’m scared to turn it on incase I burn the board!!
Hi, email Came-tv and they will be able to send you picture of the board so to make sure you don’t screw up 🙂 Also, if you are having problem with it, you can always email Came-TV, they can easily and quickly send you replacements within 4-5 days. (as long as it is in stock).
Hi There ! I have the same problem than you , and yesterday finally everything is working perfectly ! I basically download the profile from came-tv ( here by the way ) then ( and that´s the important part ) I calibrate in auto both sensor , and finally the motor configuration in auto and that´s it !
– I use a 5D M II Whit a 28mm Canon lens –this is the profile that´s do the job ( 222225208第三轴2.4-5D2转向跟随 )
Thank you MDIFILM for you explanation !
Best Regards
Would this work with a blackmagic pocket?
yea it should, the blackmagic pocket is tiny… 🙂
Hi ,
Thanks to you i setup my came 7000 gimble and working gr8, but have a one issue , when it wrk the motors get bit hot, Is it normal or something wrong ? help me with this..
Thanks
Hasitha
if it gets hot at to burning, then you need to readjust the pid settings, as it seems that your motors are going overdruve 🙂
Hi,
I tried to use the gimbal upside down to get a higher point of view, but as soon as i turn my roll axis over 90 degree, the gimbal starts to shake. Any tips for that or do I need to create a new profile?
Thanks in advance!
it may be a balancing issue or the pid setting aren’t strong enough to hold it…
Anyone know if the latest DYS EAGLE EYE include all the same parts as the latest CAME7500 gimbal?
the parts and componets all seem identical.
but i havent gotten any solid confirmation as to whether the DYS Eagle Eye has the same control box, battery mount, and joystick as the CAME7500.
DYS has confirmed that they share the same structural parts and AlexMoss sensor.
but they do differ in Motors.
DYS supplying their own motors for the EAGLE EYE, while CAME uses another brand for their 7500.
DYS hasnt gotten back to me yet regarding the Control Box and Battery Mount.
im wondering they just dont want to admit that it doesnt come with one?
I think they are the same, but I can’t confirm, the best thing for you is to look and see if they provide plenty of support, if not, then you should consider Came-7000 or Came-7500 as they are prompt to help compared to others that I’ve dealt with from China. (But keep in mind, they are 13+ hours ahead of US, so it may take up to 40 hours to get a respond, they do usually respond within 24hrs.)
GREAT site, thanks!!! I’ll be using a similar setup with the GH4 with my Came 7500. Would you mind sharing your PID with your new setup?
Hi there, right now I’m actually using Emm’s 32bit profile for 3 modes, one nonfollow with yaw disabled, one follow mode (using my previous settings) and one nonfollow mode but with yaw following. I’ve updated the post again and learned a bit more about the weight limits, scroll back up to the 32bit section and you will find out more…
I am one of those novices who just bought a gimbal system and am having trouble getting it set up and I may have done some serious damage. I was working on balancing the yaw arm and some of the exposed wires were pinched, causing the wires to short, and some dreaded smoke started emitting out of the tubes! I’m not sure if this is something that can be fixed by soldering the wires back together or if its something more serious.
I have a came 7500 gimbal.
Hi Michael, just email Came-tV they will be able to replace it right away.
Hey, thanks for the detailed review, very helpful . .
I want to know if the CAME 7500 would work with a Sony HD FX 1000 Camera.
Its quite a big camera by weight and size.
Thanks in advance!
You do know that it’s long and it will not make the gimbal move… so no, it will not work for any gimbal for that matter (unless you can get one that has long arms to hold the camera).
Thanks for this great blog with all the info. Does anyone out there have the GUI 2.3b4 version software for the 32 bit board? It has been taken down off the Alexmos site.
I have the Came 7000 gimbal and loaded the 2.41 software onto my PC. I connected the gimbal by usb and tried to update the firmware on the board. It did not work and the board now says firmware 00.00b. Many people are having this issue. I now am having trouble trying to re flash the board with Xloader, THIS IS A NIGHTMARE!
Be warned even people who have bought the 7500 are having the same problem. The Came gimbal is great but the changing of firmware and GUI updates with Alexmos is creating issues.
go to the 8bit section and get the 2.3b4, it’s the same one for both 8bit and 32bit.
I used my new came 7500 for like 30 minutes intermittently. When in follow mode and having used it with canon 7D, I switched off and then switched on after like 30 minutes. It never worked after that. Here is the current status of the gimbal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_dn_LF8bQk&feature=youtu.be
You can reach me at avkpr@yahoo.co.in to know more about the issue. I have been in touch with americas@came-tv.com costumer care person. No progress so far after back and forth emails for 10 days. I will update if I reach any useful conclusion. So far I have been disappointed. When it worked, gimbal worked great. Not any more now.
I am not sure if I can help much since I am still a newbie.. but here’s a link that has a lot of experts that may be of help. https://www.facebook.com/groups/BrushlessGimbalGroup/
Hola
compre el cametv7500 y llego sin batería, mierda……malo malo
¿esta batería me sirve para reemplazarla?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMYY2OE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Gracias
Daniel Navarro
Chile
Si
Excellent info! I think I have a problem with the “Accelerometer Calibration”.
I just received the 7800, set it up with the GH4 in a Varavon Cage (leaving the hand strap in place, but no top bar, obviously.) With everything balanced the gimbal seems to operate properly. I think there’s a slight issue with the YAW action rotating left – its slower to react/follow than when rotating right. (I’ve fine tuned the balance and it’s getting better, but I think I need to tune via the software now.)
I downloaded the latest GUI version from BaseCam, installed the indicated driver (for Windows) and connected the gimbal to my PC – I now get a message about “Accelerometer Calibration needed.” I attempt to perform the calibration via the software, clicking the Acc Cal button – it appears to run through the process but returns the same message. I’m stuck in Accelerometer Calibration state!
I’ve also attempted the calibration on the gimbal itself, standalone, by doing a “long-click” of the joystick. The gimbal will beep ~10 to 15 times, all lights flash red, then end with solid red lights and the gimbal no longer responds to any movement or joystick commands. I have to power it off and back on to resume operations.
What have I done wrong? Can this be fixed? Any experience or insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
this is a first time I read about anyone adding a cage onto the camera and to the gimbal, glad it worked out for you, is there anything that makes it turns to left with yaw? have you tried pushing the yaw bar forward as well? if you are talking about when turning it on it slightly go toward left, under RC and scroll down a bit there is a few section about auto and that’s where you can set it up so it doesn’t slide to left slowly.
As far as I know on gui, did you write to the board after you acc calibrate? if you do see that error, you can ignore it, I saw that when I was trying to pull the profiles out.
You can also do is to reset the firmware via GUI and then load the profiles back and redo that, the long click is to do gyro calibration, not acc calibration
Would this work with a Blackmagic Cinema Camera? If not, do you have models available for cameras of that size?
Came-TV sells the Came-8000 which is for Epic and BMCC. Please check out their site at http://www.came-tv.com. We will be able to sell to US customers only soon.
The new CAME 8000 could be use with dslrs too? And please what is the weight of the product.
no, it is more for heavier cameras like the Epic or the BMCC.
I’m selling my DJI Ronin because it’s too heavy. I was planning on getting a focus system like the 24shots Silencer Lite. Would this be an issue if I had a GH4, EF adaptor for Tamron 24-70 lens? Thank you
I like the Silencer form 24shots when using it with the shoulder rig/mount. however with the gimbal, you will need the shorter rod system and you have to try it out, from my personal experience, I think it would be a major distraction of running around with the gimbal, looking through the monitor and then use the Silencer at the same time, you will have to practice a lot before getting it right. best of luck!
HI, just bought the came 7800 and a Nanuk 945 case since it’s been recommended in several videos and it’s 1/2″ taller than Pelican 1600. However, using the original packing foam, I’m not able to fit it into the case, even after cutting off the top part completely, just leaving the 1″ buffer on the bottom. the top bar of 7800 hangs above case by an inch or more, including the battery terminal prongs (which look delicate). Can’t figure out how you guys are able to fit the 7800 rig into these cases. Are both ends of rig touching the case? In which case, I doubt I’d be able to travel without damaging it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Hi Ron, well, we made it fit by unscrewing the top and the handles, as those are easier to put it back so other than that, the rest is as it is and we merely made it into the Pelican 1600 and it still have space for additional stuff, don’t bother with the Came’s 7800 case it’s useless.
This gimbal is great! However, I am running into a weird issue. When ever I pan (or yaw) with the gimbal, be it in follow mode or using the joystick, the camera rolls in that direction. Then it ever so slowly corrects itself. What could be causing this and how can I fix it?
please provide me a video so I have an idea of the problem, it’s easier to resolve it that way, also make a video of your balance, it may be off balance as well. thanks.
Here you go
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiFKexTe6k0&feature=youtu.be
I have a GH4 so I’m leaning towards the new improved 7800 vs the Ronin. But I have 2 questions that make me hesitate. 1) Is it possible to upgrade the 7800 and have a 2nd Operator control the gimbal via remote? If so, could you provide links to compatible remotes. I haven’t seen any examples of this. And 2) Is it possible to use an electronic follow focus?
Thanks
Hi Derek, if you are talking about upgrading the firmware, yes, I did it twice already but Came-TV do not want you to do that to damage the gimbal by accident. If you are talking about 2nd operator to control? you can add those, since the Came-7800 is using Alexmos board, at this time, I don’t know who has done it though. Any companies that sell alexmos boards may have what you need, check out Aerialpixels.com as well. as for your 2nd question, there are two electronic follow focus currently available, one is the 24shots Silencer Pro with Gimbal attachment and the other is the Lenzhoud Wireless, check them out 🙂
Hi MDI Films,
First let me thank you for this amazing blog, it is without doubt the best resource on the net for the came gimbal.
I confess I am a gimbal newbie. The instructions i got were basic to say the least, the unit also shipped with one of those small cd’s which i assumed contains more instructions. Sadly i dont have a device capable of playing one of those little cd’s. i have emailed came so am hoping they will have a link i can use to find the info on there.
I spent nearly 2 days watching every video i could find on balancing, and am confident now that the balance is pretty good.
Out of the box the gimbal works well with my 70D and 10 – 22mm wide angle lens in normal underslung mode, and briefcase mode for that matter.
Trying to get it into over handle bar mode is a problem. it is much less stable up there.
Had a go at PID and motor calibration (with the help from cheesycam’s vids) but the results seemed way off and caused it to shake a lot. so i reinstalled the defaults.
I notice from the blog that you are also using the 70D. Any chance you are willing to share your profiles with us technically inferior mortals?
Also mine seems to randomly decide what profile to start in. Is there any way of saying start in profile 1?
Many thanks
Dan
Dan, unfortunately I no longer have the 70D so I didn’t have the pid adjusted with my latest Came-7800 Gimbal. I don’t use inverted mode but I was told that to be able to make that work, you have to turn it on when on inverted or switch to lock mode and then turn it to inverted mode and then switch the the follow profiles. I was also told that you just have to go into PID software and adjust the RC angle thing (at bottom of the rc tab where it said 90 to change it to 180). If you want to start with profile 1, just use the software and write profile 1 as last thing and when you turn off and on, it will always start with that one.
Hi,
I have a problem with my new 7800.
I received it in France in february, but I was only able to open the box this week. It’s not the updated one.
I’ve uploaded you a quick video to show you how I balanced it, it seems good to me.
But as soon as I switch it on, it begin to vibrate very strong and don’t stop vibrating !!…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdx4973jclM
I haven’t plugged it with the usb yet, just took out of the box and balanced it.
I have read yesterday all your blog about cametv 7000-7500-7800, but haven’t found anything about this strange behaviour.
Do you think it’s a setting problem, or this model may have a worse production problem?
Thanks a lot for your work and help !
that is probably mean a few things, listen and see which motor is making that noise and then look through it carefully, it may be something got caught in the motor that is making the noise, or it may be a bad motor or wiring. I was just helping a friend last night on same issue, and we concluded that the motor was bad. You can also try doing a quick calibration (push and hold the joystick until you hear it starts beeping, then release) make sure the camera is in the right balance position to get it calibrated right.
It seems coming both Pich and Roll motors, but sometimes it stops, and few seconds later restart, strange… I tried quick calibration but it doesn’t change anything. I think I have to try pid tuning…
Big thanks !
You may need to do PID tuning then.